Camioneta Etiquette

My primary mode of transportation besides my own two feet is Camionetas. These are old U.S. School Buses which have made the journey down here to transport the majority of Guatemalans from one place to another. They are also affectionately known as “Chicken Buses”, although I have yet to see a chicken on one. The buses are painted in bright colors. The drivers are usually competent, if not a bit aggressive. Every once in a while you get a Mario Andretti want-to-be. As a guy who is 5’11 ¾” it’s sometimes hard to fit in the seats, especially if you find yourself sitting over one of the wheels. When it’s full they put 3 to a seat and then they fill up the middle as well. There is a guy who they call the “ayudante” (Spanish for Helper) who makes his way thought the bus with some frequency and collects the fare form the new faces. This guy is amazing. He can remember who is new on a bus packed with 70 people. I suppose recognizing me isn’t that hard. When you have more than just a backpack the ayudante climbs up ladders that have been affixed to the bus and puts your stuff on a luggage rack. I’ve seen lots of baskets on their way to market up there as well as an occasional bicycle. One of the more amazing ayudante tricks I saw was one night a few weeks back when on a crowded bus the guy climbed from the doorway to the top while the bus was going down the road at 35mph to retrieve the goods of someone who was getting off at the next stop. It’s really a great experience, although not always the most comfortable. Perhaps after a few years it might get old.

Bucket Showers

You kind of get used to certain creature comforts that you may have had for more than 30-years. One of the ones which I was used to was a “normal” shower. As I recall, you turn the water on and adjust it so hot and cold meet in the right proportion and you enjoy and adequate amount of water pressure to thoroughly clean your body. No so much here. At least not at the house where I’m staying. Every morning I boil a decent size pot of water and bring it into the “shower” with me. In the shower there are two or three 5-gallon buckets of cold water. I then proceed to fill a bowl which is about the size of a dog-food bowl with a bit of the hot water and a decent amount of cold water and dump it over my head. Repeat about 25-times with different amounts of lathering and shampoo and I’m pretty clean. This morning I accidentally dropped my soap in the hot water. Not thinking, I reached in there to grab it. Not a good idea. I think the technical term is “scald”, but whatever it was it wasn’t pleasant, but I know it could have been worse.

Far Far Way

I spent three days this past week in a place called “Todos Santos” or All Saints. It’s in a departmento called Huehuetanango which is up near the border with Mexico in the Northwest of the country. I was visiting a volunteer who has been doing the Municipal Development program for the past two years. He’s had a very successful run and will be leaving soon. The town is famous because the men wear a traditional clothing which consists of red bellbottoms with white strips and a white jean jacket with blue and yellow strips and an embroidered collar (I´m not making this up). It wasn’t just a few of the older men wearing this, it was almost all of the men over the age of 6. It didn’t matter if it was the mayor or guys working on the “road construction” project. To get up there I took something approximating a Greyhound for almost 6 hours and then another camioneta (think school bus) for another 2 ½ hours, the last hour of which was on a dirt road. Funny enough, I think I could be very happy in a place like this.

Trip into the Big City

This past week we made the trip into Guatemala City with my Spanish teacher. The Peace Corps offices are in the city while the training center is located in a nice little town called Santa Lucia Milpas Altas about an hour from the city. Milpas Altas means tall corn stocks, but you probably already knew that. In January the offices will be co-located in Santa Lucia. After that point the only business we would have in the city would be a medical appointment. I'll tell it you you as it is...the city kind of sucks. Lots of traffic and pollution. For our safety we have to get off the bus on the outskirts and take a cab if we need to travel in the city. The good thing, I suppose, is that you can find anything you might ever conceivably need in the city. I even came across a GAP! It's a world away from where I'm living now and I don't imagine I'll make any more trips in there than I have to unless of course I need a new pair of Khakis.

Corn is King

In the two weeks that I’ve been here I can think of less than a handful of meals which didn’t include a healty serving of Corn Tortillas. They are always corn, never flower. There is a lot of history with corn and the land here. According to Mayan legnend man is made of corn and when we consume corn we are in a way consuming the soul of a diety. It strikes me as similar to the Catholic teachings on eurcharist. We get the corn tortiallas from and Aunt of Sister of Jose Lois. Usually one of the kids runs out and grabs them. They are fresh made. You get 4 or 5 for a Quetzal (about 12 cents). I really should keep track of how many I eat over the course of a weeks, but I bet it’s well over 40.

The Elections - How did I end up here and what is going on?

Those are probably my two favorite questions. It means that I somehow ended up in a postion that stretches my comfort level a bit and that I’m going to chalk it up to “an adventure”. Tonight I found myself somehow at a quasi Poltical Ralley. Basically what happen was that my host family asked me if I wanted to go with them to get their voting number for tomorrow. I figured there was a non-partisan governmental office that took care of that. Nope. Best I can tell you go to a Party headquarters and you get your number to vote. We ended up going to a small courtyard for the party which Rigaburta Menchu is representing in the Presdiential race. While Jose Lois and Dina were doing there thing I was sitting uncomfotably watching a guy cut up what looked like some sort of business card for the party which had recently been run on a color printer. I was definitely getting some looks like..mostly what are you doing here? About 10-minutes after we got there a Powerpoint presentation started which covered the details on why Guatemala was poor and other countries were rich. I was trying not to pay attention since we are supposed to stay way far away from anthing approaching partisan politics, but I couldn’t help but listen to how India and Egypt are over 1000 years old and yet they are poor and New Zeland and Austrailia are less than 150 years old and they are rich. There was also some talk on how Switzerland is a very rich country and they make the world’s finest yaughts even though they are land locked. Somewhere along the way the Mayorial candidate offered me a CD-ROM and a color brochure, but I politiely declined it by feinding I didn’t know what he was saying in Spanish. In a strange way it kind of seemed like we were all locked in there, although it also may have been to keep people out. I was a little bit concerned about having my photo taken at the gathering, but I think with the history of this country they are probalby a bit camera shy when it comes to polticial events themselves. Although tempted, I left my camera in my pocket. As a person with a keen interest in poltics, I wish I could have been more of a fly on the wall, but it’s hard not to be noticed when you’re the tallest guy in the room by a good 3-inches and the only guy with blong hair and a bright blue Gor-Tex Rain coat.

The Hurricaine that Wasn’t (at least here)

We we notified last Monday that there was a Hurricane heading our way later in the week and that some of us were going to have to pack up our bags and move to safer ground. My village was on of the four (of 10) which the Peace Corps deemed in danger. I think the decision was based on the fact that it’s perched on a hill and also that the only access (that I know of) is across a bridge. We went back to Santa Lucia Milpas Altas on Tuesday with a bag packed for a few nights. Once again we were with host families. This time it seemed that both the families and the trainees (myself included) knew this was for a short duration so a lot of effort wasn’t put into getting to know eachother. On the other hand, for the dozen or so trainees who found themselves back together again it was a good time to get to know eachother. The two nights we were there we found an out of the way cantina and had a couple of drinks after classes and before heading back to our host families. It was quite enjoyable to speak English and “decompress” with others in the same boat (no pun intended). The Hurricane missed us by a ways so there isn’t a good story to tell about that, but I can understand why the Peace Corps wanted is high and dry and safe.

What day is today?

I’ve been in Guatemala for less than a week and the days are starting to blur together. Hard to believe that I’ve only been with my host family for two nights. This morning wasn’t so obscenely early (although early enough). I had my first bucket bath. Dona Dina was kind enough to put hot water on the stove for me early, although I had enough time to heat the water. It was a good enough size bucket to provide warm water for an entire wash and shave. It’s just odd to stand in what could be considered a shower stall and pour warm water over your head. It works well enough though. That’s what I’m looking at for the next three-months and possibly for the next 2 ½ years. This morning was our first day of Spanish class. It’ll be mostly practical oral. We walked around town and talked about a few different topics. At 10:00 our teacher, Don Philippe and I grabbed a snack. It was Atol which is a warm drink with rice and milk and a Tostada. Muy bien. I’m in the Intermediate-Bajo (Low) group and need to be at Intermediate Media (middle) in order to continue after the three months of training. I’ve defiantly improved in the last couple of days so I’m optimistic. This afternoon my technical group got together in a pueblo called Alotenango. Tenango is a native word for place. It was an hour and ½ ride on three different buses. Wasn’t too bad really. Our Spanish teacher took the three of us from my village to show us the way. He’s going to meet us in the morning to make sure we got it down. My technical group consists to 15-people doing the same job--Municipal Development. We’ll see what the entails, but basically I’ll be in a County Planning office attempting to do a wide number of things from mapping to long-term planning, to facilitating grass roots groups. When I got back from Alotenango I played with the kids for a couple of hours before we had dinner. Dinner was a minced meat and green bean dish and corn tortillas (of course). It’s raining cats and dogs at the moment and it’s pretty cool sounding on the metal roof. Kind of reminds me of camping in the trailer growing up. There is a hurricane heading this way, although it looks like it’ll hit land fall closer to Belize. Of my entering group of 33 about ½ of us have to pack a 3-day bag and stay near the Peace Corps training center. It’s a safety precaution based on the proximity to rivers or dangers of mud slides. The house I’m in seems like it’s been standing for a while and I’m certainly not worried, but I understand and appreciate the Peace Corps precaution.

Official photographer for an Evangelical Baptism

This morning started very early. Don Jose Luis y Dona Dina said they would be up around 4 and we would be taking a bus to a pool at 5. I was a little unclear on what the agenda was for the day, but I figured I would just roll with it and I’m always up for an adventure.. We were up around 4:30. There was never any discussion about breakfast, but that was okay. The Church which they belong to (and happens to be right next door) has a bus. It appeared that about 30-people were signed up for this excursion. The bus is a former school bus, probably from the US. Here they are known as comionetas or affectingly by the Americans as Chicken Buses. The ride took about 2-hours, but I have to admit that I slept most of the way. I didn’t really know what to expect, but when we got there it turned out to be a sports complex with a gym, basketball courts, tennis courts, a track, a soccer field, and a couple of pools. All pretty run down. We were the first to arrive and it appeared that we had to talk the guard into letting us in (before opening time). As soon as the group congregated, we got started with a prayer service. I wasn’t really expecting that, but again I just rolled with it. The Service took perhaps 30-minutes. About 20-minutes into it, Don Jose Luis asked if I had a camera. He then asked me to take some pictures of the service. No biggie, although I wasn’t sure if, when, or how we would get them developed. After snapping a couple of shots I put the camera away. Not long thereafter, the group congregated near the edge of the pool for three baptisms. This came to me as a bit of a shock and is quite a bit different than how we do it in the Catholic faith. As the three folks about to get baptized moved into the (cold) water Don Jose Luis once again turned to me to be the photographer. Once again, I just rolled with it. I was instructed where to stand and how many photos to take. This all took about 30-minutes at which time it was time to swim. I ended up playing a bit of Basketball and then once I was thoroughly warmed up I went for a swim. We were at the center from before 8 until almost 3. Throughout the day I was asked a number of times to take the photograph of different arrangements of family members. I certainly don’t want to get a reputation as the official photographer for this church, but it was a good way to connect with the locals. I’m still wondering what the process will be to develop it and where the money is coming from (not me). On the way back we stopped for some refreshments. Most of the folks on the bus had coconuts mostly skinned with a hole cut out for a straw. It made for a refreshing drink followed by a tasty snack. I stayed awake for most of the drive back. When I got back I went for a walk and stopped in to see my two fellow-volunteers. Neither had left the village today, but they were both doing fine.

Unpacking in a new land

Today I moved in with my host family for the next three months. It was part exhilarating and only slightly nerve racking. I don’t really have a basis for comparison, but I think I’ve lucked out in some ways and not in others. I’m in the town of Santo Domingo de Xenajoc (Shin-A-Coh). It’s a village with a largely Mayan population, although Spanish is spoken throughout. My host family consists of Dona Dina and Don Jose Louis and their three children Dennis, Rici, and Dina (Jr). The parents are about my age, the kids 10, 8, and 4. There are two other Peace Corps Trainees in my town and we will meet up for a Spanish class a few days a week (and a support network as required). My two new best friends are Reina and Kay. Reina has just finished two years with her husband as a Peace Corps volunteer in Jamaica. Sounds like a wonderful experience. They’ll meet up after the three months of training (and see each other with some frequency throughout). Kay has just finished up the course work for a Masters with a program that is in conjunction with the Peace Corps. Now she does her two year assignment as a sort of internship. The house that I’m staying in is of cinder-block construction. There is a small court yard in the middle, a kitchen and bedroom on one side, and a bedroom/living room on the other. The Peace Corps requires that the family give me my own room with a lock. I think I’m lucky because I actually have a room on the 2nd floor. It’s an entrance through the courtyard past some posts with rebar sticking out. Gives me a little more privacy, although sitting in here right now it kind of feels like a prison cell. I was met by Dina and the kids and then Jose Louis came home from work and we had lunch. Lunch was a pork chop in a fairly hot sauce with cucumber salad and (of course) corn tortillas. I’m still trying to figure out what the deal was with dinner, but I ate only with the kids and we had black bean soup and fried chicken. After lunch Jose Louis and I took a walk through town. We made a stop first at the house where his mother lives. There were a number of his siblings there and a handful of nieces and nephews. I’m not sure his family tree, but I do know he has 9 living siblings. We also walked to the houses where the two other volunteers are staying. It was good to see where they were laying their heads. We also stopped at the Catholic Church in the middle of town. The parish has been in existence since the 16th century in some form or another, although I’m not clear on how long the building has been standing. I got the mass schedule. There was one at 7 on Saturday evening, although tonight was a wedding so not really intended for the public. Sunday masses are at 7 and 10 am. I probably won’t be able to make it since the family is going on a 2-hour bust trip to go to a pool. I went to the “Evangelical” service with my family this evening. It was a nice service, although not exactly what I’m used to in a Catholic mass. I’m a bit unclear on my house dad’s role in the church, but he seemed to be a minister of some sort or at the very least a canter. The service was about 2-hours which I understand is pretty short for around here. The lack of hot water will present an uncomfort, but I’ll deal with it. All and all I’m happy to be here and I finally feel like I’m having the Peace Corps experience!

New Lands

New Lands

It’s always strange for me to get to a new place. I suppose it is for everyone. You’re trying to take it all in and at the same time put it in reference to other places you might have been or might know. It’s no different now that I’m in Guatemala. I find myself comparing it to Costa Rica and Mexico and Ghana and Seattle. I suppose in a way I’m not doing a very good job of living in the present. For our first three nights in country we’re at the Peace Corps training center in Santa Maria Altas Milpas. Some folks are staying with a family for a few days and the rest of us are in a “hotel”. It’s pretty rustic, but certainly meets any minimum standard I might (or might not) have. Running water has been hit or miss and hot water takes some technique controlling the water pressure. These three days are an orientation to the country and the Peace Corps and a chance to get to know our group better. We were fortunate to gain a couple who had just finished up a two-year Peace Corps assignment to Jamaica. They are good people (of course) and I think they will add a great deal to our training group. Saturday we will be sent out to live with families. We will be grouped by our language ability and the project we’re working on. Our group of 33 will be broken into 10 sub-groups, although we will be getting together at least once a week for the next 12-weeks. I did have time (and motivation) to get a run in this afternoon. It’s always a good opportunity to think and see new things. It’s a common perspective of new places for me. At the end of the run I couldn’t help but think “I’m glad to be here”.